This week, a grape on the up and up: cinsault, once the most grown variety in South Africa, and now enjoying a renaissance. The cinsault being sampled? Leeuwenkuil, from one of South Africa's largest wine growers; Rietvallei Estate's Dark Cin from Robertson; Ian Naude of Adoro Wines fame; and Die Ou Treffer from the seriously cool guys at De Kleine Wijn Koöp.